Just Between You, Me, and the Cottonwood Tree: Life Lessons from the Cabin

However, they can also run on a full size track at 10vdc, but they will fly right off the thing in a corner.

At 2vdc, it runs super quiet and smooth and looks pretty good.[/QUOTE]

I'd like to see a train fly

 

LEGO are fun, but a pita to clean track while it's not secure. Plus track doesn't lay flat.
This is what I was envisioning earlier. Scrap wood to start, gives me a pattern and educates me on what not to do on the real thing, if it goes that far. It may become the end result.
I'd like a continuous ramp, the curves make it difficult, but doable.

 

I just realized a 3D printer could prolly make this better than I can.
Who wants to print this up?

 

Spent some time fitting the pieces together, a few layers of wood filler, sanded, filled again, etc...still looks pieced together.
Decided to go with this for now and not waste precious board feet of hardwood.

and painted it "Satin Granite"
aka, gray.

After all, it is a passenger train in the UK, prolly common to see it run over concrete.
Also coated the board itself in satin clear. Two reasons, to seal/stop the dust rising from the MDF.
And to give the tape something to stick to. MDF rejects tape.

 

Rustoleum is the slowest drying paint on the planet. Ended up baking it in the oven at 170°F for an hour and that cured it. This was after 4 hours in the sun, still tacky.
Not sure about the gray on gray. Maybe some graffiti would break it up. Bottle of half dry white out and scribble some random shit on it. Maybe chalk for different colors?

Need to make the trestle's. Prolly just flat wood painted to match, slip it in place and secure it with double side tape and call it good.

The small white tabs under the track is the tape that still has the backing on it. It's clear afterwards.

 

Found an antique Futaba box. Gently drilled and filed. Acrylic is some temperamental stuff, cracks if you look at wrong.
The switch allows the meter to work with reverse polarity and has a Shotky diode soldered in line to protect it from any mishaps.

Just needs the hole for the input wire, haven't quite decided on that yet.
was gonna paint it from the inside, but this looks cool.

Travel to the right (green light), switch down.

travel to the left, switch up. It's that way for no reason. Swapping the lead wires changes that if desired, they are not polarized.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wh7C-hpibr4

 

Some things to fill in time. LEGO Vip bags that finally have a use.
Large monument.

Covered bridge with an ominous feel.

Asian inspired Happy Good Luck double track tunnel. Should go well with the Japanese Garden Car that will be here in a couple weeks. Along with the 5 car add on set for the GNER.

and a conglomeration of pieces for a tunnel to see just how long I could make it.

The green felt may not be what I'm looking for. Besides being pool table green, it attracts every single Archer hair that randomly floats by and I can see it being a total pain in the ass to keep clean. I'll have to try something else. Maybe a lighter shade and deal with the hair.

 

FYSA

 

Experimenting with 3D printing of buildings/structures. Biggest hurdle is getting scale size correct.
Log cabin, might be more suitable for N scale. Although it's not far off the Z scale shown.
May be 1/3 size for T scale.

 

Happy Friday!
Box from Edinburgh showed up.

The tweezers were very much needed and have a needle point tip.
The 5 car set to finish off the GNER and a JNR (Japanese National Railway) DE-10, which was utilized as both freight and passenger. It can pull the GNER cars for now. I'll prolly order a freight set from the international site as the US site just carries container cars. Boring.

full 9 car consist. It does run really well with no issues. The center passenger car is powered too.

 

Designed and printed up a drawer with full frame.



For under the T-gauge layout. Also acts as a much needed center support. It's solid now.

 

video to come soon? May i request a soda/beer can be present for reference. I still cant get over how small these are!

 

More 3d print stuff.
Made a slide out tray for the controller.
Playing a game of millimeters with this, had 60mm from table to bottom of layout.
Tallest point on the controller (the knob) is 56mm, tray is 2mm, had to make holes to sink the feet in, to get 1mm at top and bottom for clearance. Plus take into consideration the double side tape to mount it. I got it pretty close.

 

You'll be happy to know, when i saw this, you were the first person that came to mind!
Removable Coal Loads with 3D printed formers, Ep5 - YouTube

 

Printed a ball mount to fit RAM and the back of my phone cradle for the bike. Was able to lose the giant claw and regain space on the bars. I already have two RAM mounts on the bars for other crap that isn't on there all that much, it just made sense. 18mm x 25mm.


I'll add a tether to the cradle and to the bars "just in case".

And a mount for the GPS. The stock one was ok, but I wanted it up higher and with a slight tilt.

I suppose I could put the phone in the tank bag, like I should anyway. I have options now.

 

what material did you use? i was thinking of making some ball mounts too but worry PLA wouldn't do well behind the glass

 

I used PETG and printed it on it's side to get the layering for strength.

 

Printed up a spare clutch lever. I think it fits Honda, but in a pinch it might fit enough to get you moving and speed shift after that.
https://www.printables.com/model/557271-universal-clutch-lever

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V34dpWoOjfI